Kourtaliotiko Gorge

Most visitors meet the Kourtaliotiko Gorge through a car window. The road from the north coast down to Plakias drops into it, runs between tall rock walls for a few minutes and comes out the other side near Asomatos. It is dramatic even at driving speed. Stopping is better.

The gorge is where the river that later reaches Preveli Beach gathers its water. Below the road, a stairway leads down to a small whitewashed chapel and to springs that pour out of the rock. It is green, shaded and cool in a way the coast rarely is in summer, and it gives you a sense of how much water runs through this part of Crete.

Where the gorge is

The gorge lies inland from Plakias, on the main road that connects the south coast with the north. Coming from Rethymno, you pass through the Koxare side and enter the gorge before reaching Asomatos and the turn for Plakias. From Plakias itself it is only a short drive back up the same road.

The name is usually explained by the sound the wind makes as it funnels between the walls. On a windy day you will understand why. The same winds that race through here are part of the reason the south coast can be gusty; our Plakias weather guide explains what that means for sea days.

Tickets and access

Access to the site below the road is now managed by NECCA, the Greek Natural Environment and Climate Change Agency, with a ticketing system in place. Arrangements, opening hours and prices can change from season to season, so check current access and tickets on the official site at kourtaliotis-tickets.necca.gov.gr before you go. Do not rely on older blog posts or on what someone remembers from a previous summer.

If the site is closed for any reason, the drive through the gorge is still worth doing, and there are pull-ins along the road where you can safely stop and look.

What you see

The steps down

From the road, a long flight of stone steps leads down the side of the gorge. It is not a hike, but it is a steady descent, and the climb back up is a good bit of exercise on a warm day. Take your time, hold the rail where there is one, and wear shoes with grip: close to the water the stone can be damp and slippery.

The chapel of Agios Nikolaos

At the bottom sits the small chapel of Agios Nikolaos, set against the rock close to the water. It is a place of worship, so keep voices down and dress with some respect if you go inside. Local tradition connects the springs with the saint, and you will hear versions of that story if you ask around.

The springs and the river

Next to the chapel, water comes straight out of the rock and tumbles over boulders into the riverbed. This is one of the sources of the Megalopotamos, the river that winds south through the valley and eventually spreads out under the palm trees at Preveli before reaching the sea. Standing by the springs, and later wading in the river at the beach, is a nice way to see one landscape from end to end.

The flow is strongest after a wet winter and in spring. By late summer there is less water, but the springs are still there and the shade is welcome.

Birds and rock

Look up as well as down. The gorge walls are high and sheer, and large birds of prey are often seen circling above them. Bring binoculars if you have them.

When to visit

Spring is the most striking time, when the water is high and everything is green. Early summer and autumn are also very good. In July and August, go early in the morning or later in the afternoon: the steps are much more pleasant out of the midday heat, and the site is quieter.

The gorge also makes a good plan for a day when the wind has made the sea rough. When conditions keep people out of the water on the coast, a cool, shaded stop inland is a welcome change. Autumn visitors will find more ideas like this in our guide to Crete in October.

Practical tips

• Shoes: trainers or walking sandals with grip rather than flip-flops.
• Water: carry some, especially for the climb back up.
• Parking: use the designated parking and pull-ins, and never stop on a bend. The road through the gorge is a main road with lorries and buses.
• Respect the site: stay on the steps and paths, do not climb on the chapel, and take your rubbish with you.

Pairing the gorge with Preveli

The most natural day out is to follow the water. Visit the gorge in the morning while it is cool, then drive down towards the coast and spend the afternoon at Preveli Beach, where the same river meets the sea. You can add Preveli Monastery on the way.

Other pairings that work well:

• Gorge and a mountain village. Spili, a mountain village inland from Plakias, makes a relaxed lunch stop after the gorge.
• Gorge and an evening in Myrthios. Finish the day with the view over the bay from Myrthios, the village on the hillside above Plakias.
• Gorge and a beach. Our guide to the beaches around Plakias helps you choose a swim for the afternoon.
• Gorge and a sea day. Keep the gorge for the windy day and the calm days for the water: snorkelling or a first try dive around Plakias.

For everything else in the area, go back to the Plakias guide.