Kourtaliotiko Gorge
The gorge on the road into Plakias, with the springs and chapel below the road and the river that ends at Preveli.
Beaches around Plakias
Preveli is the beach most people have seen a photo of before they arrive in south Crete. A river runs out of a palm-filled gorge into the Libyan Sea. From Plakias it makes an easy half-day or a relaxed full day, as long as you plan for the walk and the heat.
Preveli is not a secret, and it would be dishonest to pretend otherwise. On a July afternoon it is busy. It is still worth going, because nothing else on this coast looks quite like it: a freshwater river comes down through a narrow gorge lined with palm trees, pools behind a bar of sand and pebbles, and then runs out into clear, deep blue sea.
From Plakias it is one of the easiest big day trips you can make. The only things that catch people out are the heat, the path, and arriving at the busiest time of day. All three are easy to plan around.
The usual route is by road. Drive east out of Plakias towards Lefkogia and follow the signs for Preveli. The road climbs over the headland and passes Preveli Monastery, then continues to a paid car park above the beach. From there a footpath drops down the hillside to the sand.
The path is steep and rocky in places. Going down is short and easy for most people. Coming back up is a different matter: it faces the sun, there is little shade, and at midday in summer it is genuinely tiring. Wear shoes you can walk in rather than flip-flops, take more water than you think you need, and if anyone in your group struggles with steps or heat, plan to walk back up late in the afternoon rather than at lunchtime.
In summer there is also a boat option from Plakias harbour that drops people at the beach and brings them back later in the day. We are not going to list names or times here because they change; ask at the harbour or in town when you arrive. The boat saves you the walk entirely, which makes it a good choice for families with small children or anyone who would rather not tackle the path. It depends on the sea, so it may not run on windy days.
The river here is the Megalopotamos, the same water that flows through the Kourtaliotiko Gorge further inland. Just before it reaches the sea it spreads into a slow pool, and palm trees crowd both banks. You can wade upstream along the river for a while under the palms, which is the part most people remember.
The palm grove burned badly in a fire in 2010. It has grown back remarkably well, and today it is hard to tell unless you know to look. It is a fragile place, though, and the reason it recovered is that people largely leave it alone.
The river water is cold. Even in August it is a shock after the sea, which children tend to love and adults tend to talk about for the rest of the day.
The beach is a mix of sand and pebbles on either side of the river mouth. The sea drops off fairly quickly and is usually very clear. There is little natural shade on the beach, so a hat and sun protection matter more here than at most beaches around Plakias.
Facilities are basic. Treat it as a place you bring your own water and snacks to, rather than somewhere to count on a long lunch.
Preveli is at its best early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Around midday in July and August the boats arrive, the car park fills and the beach gets crowded. If you can, go early, swim, walk up the river, and be heading back up the path before the heat peaks. Or come late, when the light drops behind the hills and the beach empties.
In spring and autumn the river is often fuller and the beach much quieter. May, June, September and October are all good months for a visit. Our Plakias weather guide covers what each month is usually like.
Preveli Monastery sits on the hillside above the coast, on the road you drive to reach the beach car park. It is a working monastery with a long history, and it is remembered in particular for sheltering Allied soldiers after the Battle of Crete in 1941 and helping them escape from this coast. There is a memorial to that period near the monastery.
If you visit, dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered. Opening hours change through the year, so check locally before you plan your day around them. Combining the monastery with the beach is easy, and it is worth stopping on the way down rather than on the way back, when everyone is tired and sandy.
The water off Preveli is clear and drops away quickly, and the rocky edges of the bay are good for a look with a mask. As anywhere on this coast, stay close to the rocks and the shore, watch for boats around the beach in summer, and do not swim out alone if the wind is up. If you would like to see more of what lives on this coast, our guided snorkelling trips and dive sites are a short drive back towards Plakias.
Preveli is a protected natural area, and the palm grove and river are more fragile than they look. A few simple habits help:
Preveli sits at the eastern end of a very good stretch of coast, so it combines well with other stops:
For the wider picture of what to do in the area, go back to the Plakias guide.
Tell us your dates and who is coming. We can tell you how Preveli fits with a swim or a snorkel at Schinaria, and how the wind usually treats that stretch of coast.
In the water with us
The gorge on the road into Plakias, with the springs and chapel below the road and the river that ends at Preveli.
Plakias beach, Souda, Damnoni, Ammoudaki, Ammoudi, Schinaria and Preveli compared, with which one suits whom.
The small, clear cove east of Plakias with a large cave, rock walls and some of the best snorkelling on the coast.
Month-by-month air temperature, the wind and the rain, and what they mean for swimming and diving.
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