Spili, the mountain village near Plakias

Most days in Plakias revolve around the sea. Spili is what you do on the day you want to leave it for a few hours. It is a mountain village on the main road that runs from Rethymno towards the south coast, green and shaded, with running water everywhere and air that feels cooler than on the beach.

It is not a big excursion. That is part of the appeal. You can drive up, walk through the village, have lunch under the trees and be back at the beach for the late afternoon.

The Venetian fountain

The reason most people stop in Spili is the fountain in the village square. It dates from the Venetian period, and spring water pours from a long row of carved stone lion heads into a trough below. On a hot day, people fill bottles, splash their faces and sit on the edge in the shade.

The fountain is fed by the springs that give the village its green look. Water runs in channels beside the lanes, and the big plane trees in and around the square grow because of it. It is a good reminder that inland Crete is very different from the dry, bright coast.

Walking through the village

Beyond the square, Spili is a pleasant place to wander for an hour. Lanes climb up from the main road between houses, courtyards and small churches, with views over the valley and the mountains around it. There are cafés and tavernas around the centre and along the road, so it is easy to stop for coffee or lunch.

Spili is also a working village, not a museum. Life goes on around the visitors, which is part of its charm. Be considerate when walking the narrow residential lanes, and park in the obvious places rather than squeezing into a lane.

How to get to Spili from Plakias

Spili is inland from Plakias, north and a little east. The usual route is through the Kourtaliotiko Gorge, whose road climbs from the Plakias side towards the main road between Rethymno and the south coast. From there you follow the main road south to Spili. Check the route on a map before you go. It is a mountain drive with bends, but a straightforward one.

There is no practical way to do this trip from Plakias without a car or a taxi.

Combining Spili with the Kourtaliotiko Gorge

Spili and the gorge fit naturally into one relaxed half-day. The gorge road is on the way, and the gorge itself has a ticketed visitor site with steps down to the chapel of Agios Nikolaos and the springs. Our Kourtaliotiko Gorge guide covers access and what to check before you go.

A simple plan:

1. Morning in the water. A swim, a snorkel or a dive at Schinaria, when the sea is usually calmest.
2. Midday inland. Drive up through the gorge, stop at the viewpoints, then continue to Spili for lunch in the shade.
3. Late afternoon back at the coast. Return to Plakias for an evening swim and dinner by the sea.

This works especially well on a day when the wind is up on the coast. When the sea is rough, heading inland is often the better choice anyway.

When to go

Spili is pleasant all year, but it is most useful in the hot months, from June to September, as a break from the heat of the beach. In spring the valleys are green and full of flowers, and in autumn the village is quiet and the light is soft. Our guide to Crete in October explains why inland days like this suit the end of the season.

Other days out from Plakias

• Myrthios, the hillside village directly above Plakias, for sunset views without a drive.
• Triopetra and Agios Pavlos, two wild beaches further east, for a full day on the coast.
• Preveli Beach, with its palm-lined river, the classic day out from Plakias.

For the bigger picture, start with things to do in Plakias.