Crete in October, seen from Plakias

October is when Crete stops being a summer destination and becomes simply a beautiful island in autumn. Days are warm rather than hot, the roads empty, and the sea keeps some of its summer heat for weeks after the crowds have left.

This guide looks at October from Plakias, on the south coast of the Rethymno region, which is where we live and work. Much of it applies across Crete.

The weather in October

Typical daytime highs around Plakias are 23–26 °C, with cooler nights than in summer. The first part of the month often feels like a continuation of September. By the end of October the evenings are noticeably fresher and you will want a jumper after dark.

October is also when the pattern starts to turn. The first autumn rains usually arrive at some point in the month, most often as short, heavy showers followed by clear, washed skies. A few grey or windy days in a week is normal. A whole week of rain is not.

Days are shorter. Sunset comes early enough that it is worth planning your swim for the middle of the day, when the sun has warmed things up.

For the rest of the year, see Plakias weather by month.

The sea in October

The sea cools slowly, so it is still warm in October: typically 23–24 °C off Plakias, warmer at the start of the month than at the end. For many northern Europeans that is warmer than the sea at home in midsummer, and usually warmer than the sea here in May.

What changes is how it feels. On a calm, sunny afternoon, a swim is lovely. On a windy, cloudy day, the water is fine but getting out is chilly. Bring a towel you can wrap up in, and do not leave your swim until late afternoon.

Autumn south winds can bring swell onto the south-facing beaches, and after a big blow the water can be less clear for a day or two. On those days, a more sheltered beach or a trip inland is the better plan. Our guide to the beaches around Plakias helps you choose.

What is open, and what closes

This is the one thing to plan carefully. Early October, most of Plakias is still open. As the month goes on, businesses that depend on summer visitors start to close for the winter, some in mid-October and more towards the end. Beach facilities often go first.

You will still find places to eat and shop, but the choice narrows. If you are relying on a specific taverna, hotel, car hire or boat trip, check its opening dates before you book. The same goes for boats to Preveli and other seasonal services.

Why October is good for walking and villages

The heat that makes a midday walk hard work in July has gone. October is one of the best months for exploring on foot:

• Kourtaliotiko Gorge. The springs, the chapel and the rock walls of the Kourtaliotiko Gorge are close to Plakias. Check current access and tickets before you go.
• Preveli. The walk down to Preveli Beach and, more importantly, the climb back up are much kinder in October.
• Mountain villages. Spili with its fountain, and Myrthios above the bay, are lovely on a cool, clear day.
• Longer day trips. It is a good month to drive west to Frangokastello or east to the dunes at Triopetra and Agios Pavlos without the summer heat.

Autumn in Crete is also the start of the raki-making season in the villages, from around late October. You may smell the stills or be offered a glass.

Snorkelling and diving in October

Early October can be a lovely time to be in the water: the sea is still warm, the summer crowds are gone and nobody is in a hurry. Later in the month the weather gets less predictable, and a calm morning is worth taking when it comes. A thicker suit makes a long time in the water comfortable when the air is cooler; the water temperature guide has what to wear.

Whether we are running on your dates is a question for us rather than for this page. Message us with your dates before you plan around a dive or a snorkelling trip, and we will tell you honestly what is realistic.

Who October suits

• Walkers and people who dislike heat. This is your month.
• Couples and solo travellers who want quiet more than nightlife.
• Swimmers who are happy with one swim a day in the warm part of the afternoon.

It suits families less well if the whole point is long beach days, and it is not the month for anyone who needs every beach bar open.

Practical notes for October

• Pack layers. Shorts in the day, a jumper and a light rain jacket for the evenings.
• Keep a flexible plan. Save the beach for the sunny days and the gorges and villages for the grey ones.
• Check opening dates. For accommodation, restaurants and anything seasonal.

If you are still deciding on a base, where to stay in Plakias compares the areas, and our Plakias guide has more ideas. If you are weighing it against the month before, see Crete in September.