Frangokastello, a day trip from Plakias

Frangokastello looks like a drawing of a castle: four square walls, a tower at each corner, set on flat ground a few steps from the sea. There is no town around it, just a scattering of rooms and tavernas, the beach and the mountains of Sfakia rising behind. It is a place to wander, swim and have a long lunch, and it makes a good contrast with the rockier coves around Plakias.

Getting there from Plakias

Frangokastello lies west of Plakias, in the Sfakia area of Chania. The drive follows the south coast road westwards through the hills and small villages, with views down to the sea along the way.

Allow around an hour or more each way, and check a map before you set off. The road is winding in places, there are goats on the tarmac more often than you might expect, and it is the kind of drive that is better enjoyed than rushed. Leave in the morning, and you will have plenty of time for the castle, a swim and lunch before heading back in the late afternoon.

Without a car, Frangokastello is not an easy trip from Plakias. This is one of the days where a hire car really pays off.

The castle

The castle was built by the Venetians in the 14th century to keep an eye on this stretch of coast and on the independent-minded people of Sfakia, who did not take easily to outside rule. Its name comes from what local people called it, the castle of the Franks, the word Cretans used for Western Europeans.

What you see today is the outer shell: thick walls with crenellations and the four corner towers, restored in parts. It is at its best in the early morning or late afternoon, when the low sun turns the stone golden and the shadows show the shape of the walls. Walk all the way around it; the view with the sea on one side and the mountains on the other is the one people photograph.

Access to the interior varies, and the castle is sometimes used for cultural events in summer. Check locally on the day rather than planning around it.

The battle of 1828 and the Drosoulites

Frangokastello's best-known story comes from the Greek War of Independence. In May 1828 a force of Cretan and Greek fighters held the castle and was defeated here by a much larger Ottoman army.

From that battle comes the legend of the Drosoulites, the "dew men". In late spring, around the anniversary of the battle, people have reported seeing a line of shadowy figures moving near the castle at dawn before fading away as the sun rises. Some see the fallen fighters returning; others explain it as a mirage of light and haze over the sea. You would need to be there at the right dawn with the right weather to see anything, but it adds something to a visit to know the story.

The beach

Below the castle is a long, sandy beach where the water stays shallow for a long way out. That makes it one of the easiest beaches in the region for young children: they can paddle and play without the sudden drop-offs you find at some of the coves near Plakias.

The shallow water also warms up quickly, so it is comfortable earlier in the season than deeper bays. The flip side is that you need to walk out a fair way to swim properly. Snorkellers and confident swimmers will usually find more to see at Schinaria or the rocky edges of other coves.

Shade is limited. Bring a hat and umbrella, or plan lunch in one of the tavernas near the beach during the hottest hours.

When to go

Spring and early summer are lovely here, with green hills and fewer people. In July and August the beach is busier and the middle of the day is very hot around the castle, which has no shade at all. Go early, swim, and see the walls before the heat builds, or come for the late-afternoon light.

The south coast can be windy, and Frangokastello is no exception. If a strong wind is forecast, the beach may be less pleasant, but the castle is still worth the trip. See our Plakias weather guide for what each month is usually like.

Making a day of it

A relaxed plan from Plakias looks like this:

1. Leave in the morning and take the coast road west, stopping for the views.
2. Walk around the castle while the light is soft and before the heat.
3. Swim at the beach below.
4. Long lunch, then a slow drive back to Plakias in the late afternoon.

If you enjoy days on the road, a trip east to Triopetra and Agios Pavlos makes a good contrast on another day, and the famous palm beach at Preveli is much closer to home.

Practical tips

• Water and shade: carry both. The castle area is completely exposed.
• Fuel: fill up before long drives on the south coast; petrol stations are not frequent between villages.
• Driving: take the bends slowly, and watch for animals on the road.
• Respect the monument: do not climb on the walls.

Back in Plakias

Frangokastello is a day away from the sea you know. When you are back, the beaches around Plakias are waiting, and if you would like to see what is under the water rather than just swim over it, a guided snorkelling trip or a first try dive is a very different way to spend a morning.

For more ideas, go back to things to do in Plakias.