Myrthios, the village above Plakias

From the beach in Plakias, look up at the hillside behind the town and you will see white houses scattered across the slope. That is Myrthios. It is only a short drive or a walk above the bay, but the feeling up there is very different: quieter, slower, and with a view over the whole of Plakias Bay and the sea beyond.

People tend to discover it in the evening. The heat eases, the light goes soft over the water, and a table on a terrace in Myrthios becomes the best seat in the area.

What the village is like

Myrthios is a small village of narrow lanes, steps and whitewashed houses built into the hillside. It is lived in all year, not only in summer, and it keeps a village rhythm even at the height of the season. There are a few tavernas and cafés, some with terraces looking out over the bay, and rooms and apartments for visitors.

The main attraction is the view. From the village you look straight down over Plakias, the long curve of its beach, and the headlands on either side. On a clear day the sea stretches all the way to the horizon, and in the evening the colour of the bay changes by the minute.

Walking between Myrthios and Plakias

A footpath runs down the hillside from Myrthios towards Plakias, and walking it is one of the nicest ways to arrive in town for a swim or dinner. The route passes through olive groves and scrub, with the bay in front of you most of the way down.

Going down is easy. Coming back up is a proper climb, steep in places and exposed to the sun. Walk it in the early morning or the evening rather than at midday, wear shoes with grip, and carry water. If you have dinner in Plakias and do not want the climb in the dark, a taxi is the practical way back.

Staying in Myrthios

Myrthios is a good base for people who want quiet and a view more than beach-front convenience. You trade stepping out onto the sand for evenings on a terrace above it. It works well for couples, for walkers, and for anyone who wants to feel they are staying in a village rather than a resort.

It is less ideal if you want to walk to the beach several times a day with children and bags, or if nobody wants to drive. For that, staying down in Plakias makes more sense. Our guide to where to stay in Plakias compares the areas, including the village, the stretch towards Souda, and the hill above.

When to go

Myrthios is pleasant whenever you are in Plakias. In July and August, being a little higher up often means a breath of air in the evening when the town feels still and hot. In spring and autumn it is quiet and calm, and the walks in the area are much more comfortable. The swimming season runs from May to October; our Plakias weather guide has the detail by month.

A simple Myrthios day

1. Morning at the beach. Walk down the path early, swim at Plakias, or drive to one of the nearby beaches from our guide to the beaches around Plakias.
2. Midday in the shade. Lunch and a rest out of the strongest sun.
3. Evening in the village. Back up to Myrthios for the light over the bay and dinner on a terrace.

If someone in your group wants to see what is under the surface, a try dive needs no experience, and a guided snorkelling trip is the gentler way in. Our dive sites, Schinaria among them, are a short drive from the village.

Other villages and trips nearby

• Spili, the mountain village with the Venetian lion-head fountain, for an easy inland half-day.
• Kourtaliotiko Gorge, the dramatic gorge on the road north from Plakias.
• The beaches, all compared in our Plakias beaches guide.

For everything else about a holiday here, start with things to do in Plakias.